This is where the 500-year long Age of Angkor began. Phnom Kulen is the mountain on which Jayavarman II initiated a royal ‘god of the king’ linga cult in 802AD, declaring a unified and independent Cambodia under a single ruler. Soon after, he moved his capital from Kulen to Roluos where it was to remain for almost a century before moving to the Angkor area. Several sited including hundreds of linga stands in the Siem Reap River, Waterfalls and active pagoda. It’s a bit over 50km each way from Siem Reap so set aside at least a half day fro the trip there and back. Regular admission ticket is not required. There is a separate entrance fee of $20 for Phnom Kulen.

Phnom Kulen is considered particularly sacred by Khmers as it is regarded as the birthplace of the ancient Angkor Empire, it was here that King Jayavarma II proclaimed independence from Java in the year 802, and Phnom Kulen became the Empire’s first capital. Phnom Kulen is a large upland area about 45km northwest of Siem Reap and there are many ancient temple sites scattered amongst the jungle on the vast plateau. However, as the area has only recently opened up to tourists many of these temple ruins are inaccessible. The reasons for visiting Phnom Kulen are to witness a massive 15th century reclining Buddha carved out of a huge protruding rock, to see the many lingas carved into the bedrock of the river (this is the source of the river that flows through Siem Reap), and to take a refreshing dip in the plunge pools of the regions largest waterfalls. The journey is also worth experiencing, taking you away from the ‘touristy’ Angkor temples, through traditional villages, past lush green paddy fields, and then climbing Phnom Kulen itself, surrounded by jungle and sandstone outcrops. Phnom Kulen is a magical place and is well worth visiting if you have the time.